Umami with a hint of sweetness

 

When dinnertime looms and inspiration is scarce, this pantry pasta will be there for you. Raisins make an unlikely starring appearance; they swell and plump in the pasta cooking liquid and balance the briny intensity of the feta and chili-oil-sizzled olives. (Feel free to skip the anchovies if you want to make it vegetarian.) A handful of parsley to finish and you’ll soon see that you really don’t need to be stocked to be well fed.

Pasta with Feta, Olives, and Raisins

Serves 4

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 15 minutes

 
 

Ingredients

350 grams of rigatoni or other short pasta

Kosher salt

¾ cup golden raisins

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 oil-packed anchovies (optional)

1 cup pitted green olives, coarsely chopped

2 tsp mild red pepper flakes, plus more for serving

Zest of 1 lemon

3 garlic cloves, finely grated

100 grams feta, crumbled

½ cup coarsely chopped parsley, plus leaves for serving

1 Tbsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice

Method

  1. Cook rigatoni in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally and adding ¾ cup golden raisins after 5 minutes, until very al dente, about 3 minutes less than package directions. Drain, reserving 2 cups pasta cooking liquid; reserve pot.

  2. Heat ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a small saucepan over medium. Add 2 oil-packed anchovies (if using), 1 cup pitted olives, coarsely chopped, and 2 tsp red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up anchovies, until mixture is fragrant and oil turns slightly orange in color, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in zest of 1 lemon and 3 garlic cloves, finely grated; season with salt.

  3. Return pasta and raisins to reserved pot; add feta, crumbled, and 1 cup pasta cooking liquid. Cook over medium heat, tossing vigorously, until feta is starting to melt and coat pasta and pasta is al dente, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and add anchovy mixture, ½ cup coarsely chopped parsley, and 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice. Cook, tossing vigorously and adding more pasta cooking liquid if needed, until combined and pasta is coated, about 1 minute. Taste and add more lemon juice and/or season with more salt if needed.

  4. Divide pasta among shallow bowls; top with parsley leaves and more red pepper flakes.

 
THOMAS NEWFIELD